Nail Anatomy

Nail care is an essential part of personal hygiene and beauty routines, but it’s not just a matter of aesthetics. The health and condition of our nails can reflect our overall well-being and offer insights into our physical health. Understanding nail shape, type, and the potential for damage or nail conditions can therefore help us maintain them properly and prevent long-term problems.

In the following sections, we’ll take a closer look at these topics and explore how best to care for your nails. Knowledge of these aspects of nail care is essential not only for keeping nails looking their best, but also for ensuring they remain healthy and resilient.

Nail structure and anatomy

Nail matrix (Matrix)

The nail matrix is the area at the root of the nail where new nail cells are formed. This soft area is where the nail grows from, and where the cells gradually become keratinised and hardened cells that make up the nail plate. The matrix plays a crucial role in the nail’s growth process, and its health and condition affect the nail’s appearance and strength.

Half-Moon (Lunula)

The half-moon, also known as the lunula, can be seen at the base of many people’s nails. It is crescent-shaped (hence the name “lunula,” which means “little moon” in Latin) and is most often visible on the thumbnail. Its colour can vary from person to person, but it often has a whitish or pale bluish tint. The size and visibility of the lunula can vary significantly. Some people have a large, clearly visible half-moon on several nails, while for others it may be completely absent or only visible on the thumbnail.

The lunula is an important part of the nail, as it reflects the health of the nail matrix, where nail growth begins. A healthy lunula generally indicates a healthy nail matrix and therefore healthy nail growth.

The nail plate

The nail plate is the visible part of the nail, extending from the cuticle to the nail tip. It is hard and made primarily of keratin, a structural protein that makes the nail strong and protective. The nail plate can vary in color and texture depending on individual factors such as genetics and underlying conditions.

The nail bed

The nail bed is the part of the finger or toe beneath the nail plate. It is an area of skin that extends from the nail root, where the nail begins to grow, towards the tip of the nail. This area plays a crucial role in nail health and growth, as it supports the nail plate.

The nail bed contains many blood vessels, which give healthy nails their pinkish colour through the transparent nail plate. The health of the nail bed is essential for the overall condition of the nail, as damage or conditions affecting this area can influence the nail’s growth and appearance. It is important to maintain a healthy nail bed through good hygiene and protection against injury to help keep nails healthy and strong.

The proximal nail fold

The proximal nail fold is the small area of skin at the base of the nail where the nail meets the finger or toe. It acts as a barrier that protects against bacteria and fungi that can enter the nail matrix, where new nail cells are formed.

Cuticle (cuticula)

The cuticle, also known by its Latin name cuticula, is the thin layer of dead skin at the base of the nail, where the nail plate meets the proximal nail fold. This small but important tissue acts as a protective barrier, helping to prevent microorganisms from entering the nail root, which could lead to infection and potentially affect nail growth.

During nail preparation, the cuticle is softened and gently pushed back or excess cuticle is removed to create a neater nail edge and support healthy nail growth. However, it is important to handle the cuticle with care to avoid injury and infection.

Removing too much cuticle or treating it too harshly can cause damage and should be avoided to help maintain healthy nails. Proper care includes regular moisturizing to keep the cuticle and surrounding skin soft and healthy.

The lateral nail folds

The lateral nail folds are folds of skin that surround the nail at the sides and around the cuticle. They act as a protective barrier and help prevent infection and damage to the nail.

The nail folds help keep the nail in place and support its growth.

Maintaining the lateral nail folds is an important part of nail care, as dry, cracked, or damaged nail folds can lead to discomfort and potential infections. Moisturising and gently caring for these areas helps maintain nail health and promote healthy nail growth. It is important to treat these areas with care to avoid damage that may lead to pain or infection.

It is important to avoid over-prepping the nail folds, as this can increase the risk of bacteria and allergens getting under the nail.

Free edge

The free edge is the part of the nail that extends beyond the tip of the finger or toe. It is the part of the nail plate that is not attached to the nail bed underneath and can grow, be trimmed, or filed to the desired length and shape. The free edge is visible as the hard, white part of the nail when it grows beyond the tip of the finger or toe. The health and appearance of the free edge can vary depending on overall health factors, care routines, and whether the nail is exposed to excessive physical stress.

It is important not to use the free edge as a tool, as this can lead to nail damage such as splitting, breakage, or delamination (separation of the nail plate layers). When the nail is exposed to excessive pressure or force, for example when used to scrape, lift, or open things, it can weaken the nail structure. This not only increases the risk of physical damage to the nail itself, but can also affect the nail bed and the surrounding structures, potentially leading to pain and long-term damage.

Hyponychium

The hyponychium is the soft tissue found beneath the free edge of the nail plate, at the tip of the finger or toe. It acts as a natural protective barrier or seal between the nail plate and the nail bed, and its primary purpose is to protect the area from microbial infections by preventing foreign particles and pathogens from entering under the nail.

It is not unusual for some people to have more of this tissue than others. This is completely normal.

If the hyponychium becomes damaged or infected, it can lead to pain and potentially serious nail problems. It is therefore important to avoid excessively cleaning or disturbing the hyponychium, as this can compromise its protective function and increase the risk of infection. Excessive pressure or trauma to the area can cause problems such as onycholysis, where the nail plate separates from the nail bed.

It all begins with nail cells in what we call the Matrix — a specialized part of the nail. These cells harden and ‘flatten’ through a process called keratinization, eventually forming what is known as the nail plate: the hard, translucent surface we all recognize. The development of the nail plate therefore starts in the matrix — an area hidden beneath the skin at the root of the nail. From here, new nail cells are formed, pushing the older cells forward — and it is these older cells that flatten and become what we see as the visible nail. 

Beneath the nail plate is the nail bed, which is rich in blood vessels and nerves that provide the nail with nourishment and sensitivity. The nail plate — the hard part of the nail that we often decorate — is primarily made of keratin, a strong protein that helps make the nail resilient to everyday wear and tear. Just above the cuticle, we also find the lunula — the white, half-moon-shaped area. Around the nail, there are also small folds of skin known as cuticles, which help strengthen and protect the nail against infection, and as the nail grows out beyond the fingertip, the free edge is formed — the part we care for when we trim and file our nails. 

Overall, the nail is therefore not only about beauty but also provides vital protection for our fingertips, for example by improving our grip and helping increase sensitivity when we touch something. As mentioned in the introduction, the condition of the nail can even give us important clues about our health, as changes in its color or structure may signal underlying health issues.

Nail shape

The shape of your nails can tell a story, not only about your nail-care routines but also about your overall health. While some variations in shape are hereditary and completely normal, others can be indicators of underlying health issues.

One common and widely seen nail shape is known as "ski-jump nails". This shape is characterized by a nail that curves downward before turning upward again toward the tip, resembling the end of a ski jump. Although this is often harmless, in some cases it may indicate conditions such as iron deficiency or even lung disease.

Another common nail shape is "eagle beak" or pincer nails. These nails curve downward so much that the sides of the nail come close to each other and sometimes even overlap. This can cause pain and is often the result of a hereditary tendency, but it can also develop from prolonged pressure on the nails or as a result of injury.

Some people also naturally have wide nails, which provide a sturdy platform and can be an advantage for manual work that requires good distribution of force across a larger surface. Conversely, concave or "spoon-shaped" nails, medically known as koilonychia, can develop as a result of iron deficiency anemia and should be examined by a healthcare professional.

It is important to understand that while some nail shapes can be corrected or improved with care and treatments, others should be accepted as part of our unique bodies. In all cases, however, it is important to care for and protect the nails in order to maintain both their function and appearance. Regular manicures, a healthy and varied diet, and avoiding harmful practices such as excessive nail filing or improper use of harsh chemicals are essential for maintaining healthy nails, regardless of their shape.

Nail types

Nails, the small protectors at our fingertips, come in a wide range of types and conditions, each reflecting our health, habits, and genetics. The two most common nail types are dry and oily nails, each with its own characteristics and care needs.

Dry nails can often feel fragile and brittle because they lack the natural moisture that keeps nails flexible and resilient against everyday wear and tear. This dryness can be caused by several factors, such as genetics, environmental influences (such as cold weather), or incorrect use of harsh chemicals that dehydrate the nails. Dry nails can therefore have a dull, lacklustre surface, and they are more prone to splitting and breaking. The best care for dry nails includes moisturising oils and creams that help restore and maintain moisture in the nail plate.

Oily nails often have a shiny surface and a more flexible structure, making them less likely to split. This nail type has a higher concentration of natural oils, which help maintain the nails’ elasticity and strength - however, too much oil can make the nails too soft, which may affect how long gel polish lasts. The ideal care for oily nails therefore involves balancing hydration with the use of products designed to adhere well to the nail’s naturally smoother surface.

Whether your nails are dry or oily, regular care and attention are key to maintaining their health and beauty. A healthy approach to nail care also takes the unique type and condition of your nails into account, helping ensure they remain both beautiful and functional.

Nail conditions

Nail damage, nail diseases, and allergies can have a significant impact on both the health and appearance of your nails. Understanding these issues is therefore important for maintaining healthy nails and for quickly identifying and responding to any potential concerns.

Nail damage can occur as a result of everyday activities such as computer work, cleaning, gardening, or sports. When nails are exposed to repeated or forceful impact, this can lead to splits or cracks, and more severe trauma may even cause the nail to separate from the nail bed — a condition known as onycholysis. To help prevent physical damage, it is important to wear gloves when doing work that puts strain on the hands, and to keep the nails trimmed to reduce the risk of them catching on or being hit by objects in your surroundings.

Nail diseases are often more complex and will, in most cases, require diagnosis by a doctor. Fungal infections are among the most common causes of nail diseases and may appear as discoloration, thickening of the nail, and sometimes crumbling nail edges. Another common condition is nail psoriasis, which can cause pitting, irregular nail growth, and nail lifting (where the nail plate lifts away from the skin or nail bed). These conditions often require treatment with topical or oral medication and should be monitored by a healthcare professional.

Allergic reactions around the nails are less common, but can occur as a reaction to uncured acrylates. Symptoms of an allergy may include redness, itching, and swelling around the nail area, and in more severe cases, allergies can lead to contact dermatitis.

It is important to always consult your doctor if you suspect that you may have a nail disease or an acrylate allergy.

To help you maintain healthy nails and avoid damage or diseases, we have put together a range of best practice tips that are worth following: 

- Good hygiene is the foundation of healthy nails. This includes regularly cleaning and drying your hands and nails to help prevent the buildup of bacteria and fungi, which can lead to infections. Using mild soaps and avoiding excessive contact with water and harsh chemicals also helps preserve the nails’ natural moisture balance.

- It is also essential to treat the nails gently. Harsh or improper treatment, such as aggressive filing directly on the nail plate, can cause micro-damage that weakens the nail and makes it more vulnerable to further damage. By filing only the free edge in one direction with a file that has the appropriate grit, you can minimize damage and create an even, smooth edge that is less likely to split. Buffing the nail plate should also be done very carefully to avoid filing away too much of the nail plate’s thickness.

- When trimming the nails, it is important to follow the nail’s natural shape and avoid cutting too close to the cuticle, as this can create an opening for infection. Using clean and disinfected nail clippers and tools every time is also important to help prevent the transfer of bacteria and fungi.

- Finally, it is important to remember to use nourishing nail oils and creams, as they can help restore and maintain moisture in the nail and the surrounding skin, which is essential for avoiding dryness and brittleness.

In general, many types of nail damage and nail diseases can be prevented or managed through good hygiene, proper use of nail care products, and early identification of any potential issues.