It all begins with nail cells in what we call the Matrix — a specialized part of the nail. These cells harden and ‘flatten’ through a process called keratinization, eventually forming what is known as the nail plate: the hard, translucent surface we all recognize. The development of the nail plate therefore starts in the matrix — an area hidden beneath the skin at the root of the nail. From here, new nail cells are formed, pushing the older cells forward — and it is these older cells that flatten and become what we see as the visible nail.
Beneath the nail plate is the nail bed, which is rich in blood vessels and nerves that provide the nail with nourishment and sensitivity. The nail plate — the hard part of the nail that we often decorate — is primarily made of keratin, a strong protein that helps make the nail resilient to everyday wear and tear. Just above the cuticle, we also find the lunula — the white, half-moon-shaped area. Around the nail, there are also small folds of skin known as cuticles, which help strengthen and protect the nail against infection, and as the nail grows out beyond the fingertip, the free edge is formed — the part we care for when we trim and file our nails.
Overall, the nail is therefore not only about beauty but also provides vital protection for our fingertips, for example by improving our grip and helping increase sensitivity when we touch something. As mentioned in the introduction, the condition of the nail can even give us important clues about our health, as changes in its color or structure may signal underlying health issues.
Nail shape
The shape of your nails can tell a story, not only about your nail-care routines but also about your overall health. While some variations in shape are hereditary and completely normal, others can be indicators of underlying health issues.
One common and widely seen nail shape is known as "ski-jump nails". This shape is characterized by a nail that curves downward before turning upward again toward the tip, resembling the end of a ski jump. Although this is often harmless, in some cases it may indicate conditions such as iron deficiency or even lung disease.
Another common nail shape is "eagle beak" or pincer nails. These nails curve downward so much that the sides of the nail come close to each other and sometimes even overlap. This can cause pain and is often the result of a hereditary tendency, but it can also develop from prolonged pressure on the nails or as a result of injury.
Some people also naturally have wide nails, which provide a sturdy platform and can be an advantage for manual work that requires good distribution of force across a larger surface. Conversely, concave or "spoon-shaped" nails, medically known as koilonychia, can develop as a result of iron deficiency anemia and should be examined by a healthcare professional.
It is important to understand that while some nail shapes can be corrected or improved with care and treatments, others should be accepted as part of our unique bodies. In all cases, however, it is important to care for and protect the nails in order to maintain both their function and appearance. Regular manicures, a healthy and varied diet, and avoiding harmful practices such as excessive nail filing or improper use of harsh chemicals are essential for maintaining healthy nails, regardless of their shape.
Nail types
Nails, the small protectors at our fingertips, come in a wide range of types and conditions, each reflecting our health, habits, and genetics. The two most common nail types are dry and oily nails, each with its own characteristics and care needs.
Dry nails can often feel fragile and brittle because they lack the natural moisture that keeps nails flexible and resilient against everyday wear and tear. This dryness can be caused by several factors, such as genetics, environmental influences (such as cold weather), or incorrect use of harsh chemicals that dehydrate the nails. Dry nails can therefore have a dull, lacklustre surface, and they are more prone to splitting and breaking. The best care for dry nails includes moisturising oils and creams that help restore and maintain moisture in the nail plate.
Oily nails often have a shiny surface and a more flexible structure, making them less likely to split. This nail type has a higher concentration of natural oils, which help maintain the nails’ elasticity and strength - however, too much oil can make the nails too soft, which may affect how long gel polish lasts. The ideal care for oily nails therefore involves balancing hydration with the use of products designed to adhere well to the nail’s naturally smoother surface.
Whether your nails are dry or oily, regular care and attention are key to maintaining their health and beauty. A healthy approach to nail care also takes the unique type and condition of your nails into account, helping ensure they remain both beautiful and functional.
Nail conditions
Nail damage, nail diseases, and allergies can have a significant impact on both the health and appearance of your nails. Understanding these issues is therefore important for maintaining healthy nails and for quickly identifying and responding to any potential concerns.
Nail damage can occur as a result of everyday activities such as computer work, cleaning, gardening, or sports. When nails are exposed to repeated or forceful impact, this can lead to splits or cracks, and more severe trauma may even cause the nail to separate from the nail bed — a condition known as onycholysis. To help prevent physical damage, it is important to wear gloves when doing work that puts strain on the hands, and to keep the nails trimmed to reduce the risk of them catching on or being hit by objects in your surroundings.
Nail diseases are often more complex and will, in most cases, require diagnosis by a doctor. Fungal infections are among the most common causes of nail diseases and may appear as discoloration, thickening of the nail, and sometimes crumbling nail edges. Another common condition is nail psoriasis, which can cause pitting, irregular nail growth, and nail lifting (where the nail plate lifts away from the skin or nail bed). These conditions often require treatment with topical or oral medication and should be monitored by a healthcare professional.
Allergic reactions around the nails are less common, but can occur as a reaction to uncured acrylates. Symptoms of an allergy may include redness, itching, and swelling around the nail area, and in more severe cases, allergies can lead to contact dermatitis.
It is important to always consult your doctor if you suspect that you may have a nail disease or an acrylate allergy.
To help you maintain healthy nails and avoid damage or diseases, we have put together a range of best practice tips that are worth following:
- Good hygiene is the foundation of healthy nails. This includes regularly cleaning and drying your hands and nails to help prevent the buildup of bacteria and fungi, which can lead to infections. Using mild soaps and avoiding excessive contact with water and harsh chemicals also helps preserve the nails’ natural moisture balance.
- It is also essential to treat the nails gently. Harsh or improper treatment, such as aggressive filing directly on the nail plate, can cause micro-damage that weakens the nail and makes it more vulnerable to further damage. By filing only the free edge in one direction with a file that has the appropriate grit, you can minimize damage and create an even, smooth edge that is less likely to split. Buffing the nail plate should also be done very carefully to avoid filing away too much of the nail plate’s thickness.
- When trimming the nails, it is important to follow the nail’s natural shape and avoid cutting too close to the cuticle, as this can create an opening for infection. Using clean and disinfected nail clippers and tools every time is also important to help prevent the transfer of bacteria and fungi.
- Finally, it is important to remember to use nourishing nail oils and creams, as they can help restore and maintain moisture in the nail and the surrounding skin, which is essential for avoiding dryness and brittleness.
In general, many types of nail damage and nail diseases can be prevented or managed through good hygiene, proper use of nail care products, and early identification of any potential issues.