All UV-activated gel products today are based on acrylates. Acrylates are a broad group of chemical compounds used in much of the plastic around us. In the nail industry, they are most commonly found in a liquid, uncured form.
All our gel products are UV-activated and require UV light with a wavelength between 365nm and 405nm to start the curing process. Nailster’s UV lamps emit UV light at these wavelengths to ensure proper curing.
When we talk about light and its different wavelengths, we enter the world of spectroscopy. Spectroscopy is the technique used to classify light based on its wavelength. The term "nm" stands for nanometer, and 1 meter equals 1 billion nanometers. The light we typically see from a lamp in the living room falls within the visible spectrum, which ranges from 435 to 750 nm. By comparison, dental X-rays are around 1 nm. Wavelength defines the distance between two wave crests in the radiation, which means that for red light with a wavelength of 750 nm, there can be up to one and a half million "crests" in one meter.
Radiation is divided into different categories with specific names, such as X-rays, ultraviolet light, visible light, and infrared light (the latter is felt as heat). The UV light used to cure UV gel polish falls within wavelengths of 365 to 405 nm, placing it in the ultraviolet spectrum, often referred to as UV-A light.
It is worth noting that regular indoor lighting cannot cure our products, so you can safely work under a normal lamp without the risk of accidental curing.
UV lamps are often measured in watts, but this does not give an accurate picture of the lamp’s actual UV output. Watts typically indicate the lamp’s maximum power consumption, which is a bit like judging a car’s performance based on its fuel consumption. A more accurate way to measure a UV lamp is to look at its UV intensity. Since this can be quite technical, UV intensity is rarely mentioned in the marketing of UV lamps.
The placement of the LEDs and the way the UV light is reflected inside the lamp mean that the intensity varies depending on where in the lamp the measurement is taken. The intensity is highest in the inner area of the lamp, moderate in the center, and lowest at the sides.
Our lamp has the following UV intensity:
Inner area: 20-22 mW/cm2
Center: 12-16 mW/cm2
Sides: 10-12 mW/cm2
The lamp’s “Low heat” function starts at one-third of this intensity and gradually increases over 99 seconds.
Sunlight can actually cure your gel products, which is why it’s important to store them away from light. You should also avoid applying gel polish outdoors, as direct sunlight can affect the curing process and the final result.
UV-C light is known for its ability to kill bacteria and is often used for disinfection in medical settings. However, this is not a type of light you will come into contact with during your manicure, as our lamps are designed not to emit UV-C rays.
UV-B is the type of light that gives your skin its summer glow, but it plays only a minimal role in curing gel polish. Our lamps emit only negligible amounts of UV-B.
UV-A light is what kickstarts the curing process of your gel products. Although UV-A is also associated with an increased risk of skin damage, including skin cancer, due to its ability to damage DNA, the amount of UV-A you are exposed to during a manicure is very small. This exposure can be compared to a few extra hours in the sun, which, when using gel polish only 1-2 times a month, is considered a minimal risk according to research.
For extra protection, you can choose to wear UV-protective gloves when applying your gel products. Although this step is not necessary, it can provide an additional layer of protection against UV rays, so you can enjoy your DIY manicure safely and with greater peace of mind.
At a chemical level, the acrylates in our products are a blend of
These are the building blocks of all acrylates and are essential to their performance.
When exposed to UV light, the photoinitiators are activated and act as a catalyst, allowing monomers and oligomers to link together. This reaction results in the formation of long, cross-linked molecular chains known as polymers. This is the process that transforms the liquid acrylate blend into a hard and durable form on the nail.
The curing process is therefore essential to achieving the desired result. Complete curing ensures that the polymers have formed a strong matrix, making the UV gel polish hard and resilient. Although a product may appear cured on the surface, it is important to ensure that it has cured all the way through to the lower layers to avoid weaknesses in the product’s structure.
It is a common misconception that the heat from a UV nail lamp is what “dries” the nails. In fact, it is the UV light alone that cures the nail product. The heat you feel is simply a natural phenomenon that occurs because UV diodes also generate heat when in use, just like a light bulb that becomes warm.
The curing process for all UV nail polish is exothermic, which means it naturally releases a small amount of heat as part of the chemical reaction. Normally, this is not something you will notice. However, in certain cases, if a particularly thick layer of product has been applied or if your nails are more sensitive, you may experience a warm sensation.
If you notice an increased feeling of heat, it is important to proceed with care to ensure your comfort. We recommend pausing the curing process briefly and taking a short break. To make the process more comfortable, you can use the lamp’s “Low Heat” function. This smart setting starts at a low intensity of around one-third of the full level and gradually increases to full power over the next 99 seconds. This step helps minimize heat build-up, so you can continue creating beautiful nails in a comfortable and safe way.
If you continue the curing process despite repeated pain caused by the heat, in very extreme cases you may experience onycholysis, which means that your nails may loosen from the nail bed. For this reason, we recommend using the Low Heat function at the slightest discomfort as a precautionary measure.